Just when you think that you have formed your opinion about Belgrade, it might surprise you where you least expect it. Take for example what happens if you by chance stumble upon “Čumicevo sokače”- a seriously crumbling shopping mall in the very center of the city and suddenly find yourself surrounded with dozens upon dozens of hip designer shops, galleries and concept stores where young, emerging and already established designers and artists show and sell their work right next to each other.
It is hard to imagine now, but not that long ago the place was bursting with glitz in its full '90s marble, steel and fake shine glory. After its short-lived heyday, bigger and shinier shopping malls started popping up around the city and “Čumić” was forgotten, mostly abandoned and left to decay… Until someone had the great idea to let local designers rent empty locales in the abandoned mall.
The former ghost town is now bursting with life and creativity. Named Belgrade Design District (rather handy for tourists, who would otherwise have to ask for Chou-mitch-aevo sou-kat-che), prepare for great local shopping, with the unfinished ‘90s interior design exorcism just adding to the somewhat surreal and definitely creative atmosphere of the place. Check out Nešović fine arts gallery for young Serbian art scene, Bartselona gallery for photography exhibition, All Nut for cold pressed and organic local produce, Spice up to invigorate all senses and any of many designer shops for inspiration and cool new clothes.
Find your way with 197 Insider Tips from our Local Spotters
"Brodić" is a Belgrade classic, a riverside cafe-bar that's been around for more than 20 years. It's the epitome of low-profile, tranquil place to chill...
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"Tuk Tuk" in Belgrade is riding the wave of new South-East Asian restaurants in the city. If you're hungry for some good Thai, look no further...
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"Galerija čokolade Premier" in Belgrade is owned by people who really try hard to please chocolate lovers. My favourite is the milk chocolate raspberries.
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"Stari šlep" is the perfect restaurant for the summer days/daze in Belgrade. Its name means 'the old barge' - I'd recommend a fish soup and salad here.
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"Balkan Ekspres restaurant" is in Belgrade's Zemun, a city of its own. This place is worth visiting if only just for the views from inside the train car...
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"Radecki club/restaurant" on Belgrade's Zemun quay: a true local oasis - no espresso here, just plain good old 'domestic' Turkish coffee. Lots to see here.
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"Illegal Cinema" in Belgrade is a very special institution. Everyone can suggest a film for screening, if they start a discussion about it at the end...
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The daily menu can, for example, include pumpkin with leek and poppy seeds, Thai curry with dried banana, chutney and raita. Or the good old veggie burger.
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After 40 years of providing the people of Belgrade with the best steaks, "Morava Butcher Shop" is now the first Meat Concept Store in town...
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The "Stefan Nemanja Monument" in Belgrade is the city's largest - it always reminds me of The Lord of the Rings...
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Pljeskavicas are like Serbian burgers, but much bigger and tastier. Mile makes some amazing pljeskavica, some of the best in Belgrade in my opinion...
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197 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
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