Chains of pastry shops with Mid Eastern/Turkish cakes have taken over Belgrade's downtown, and some of them actually started offering regular dishes, not just sweets.
Hanan first attracted attention as a place with all kinds of baklava/gurabie/harissa cakes, and then introduced a wide array of typical Arabian/Lebanese dishes. From fattoush and tabbouleh to kebab, kofta and shawarma. They also have separate small breakfast and takeaway menus, with different sandwiches, falafel, shawarma, hummus...
You can start off with a nice and feel-good Sorbet adas bil sabaneh, a soup with lentils and spinach, to bring up your appetite.
A choice of cold and warm appetizers is tempting - they can make for a great dinner even without the main meals. I'd definitely recommend some muhamara, a great pepper, nuts and cashew spread and baba ganoush - smoked eggplant with pomegranate juice. Some falafel always goes well, as well as pita bread with tomato & parsley, or a spinach pita.
Main courses are mostly with meat, so as a vegetarian I wouldn't know what to recommend. However, the portions are huge and ordered here often, so I'm sure you won't be disappointed.
Hanan is located in the center, just across the Radio Belgrade building. The premises are a bit sterile for my taste, but it's the food that actually spices up the atmosphere and makes it worth coming. Visiting the place in the evenings may mean you'll get a chance to see a belly dancer as well. Mid Eastern food lovers will be satisfied.
"Aleksandar Club Ski Track" outside Belgrade, in the woods, is curiously just as good in winter as it is in summer. The best views and atmosphere here...
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The daily menu can, for example, include pumpkin with leek and poppy seeds, Thai curry with dried banana, chutney and raita. Or the good old veggie burger.
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"Muzej Iluzija", or the 'Museum of Illusions', is a great way to spend time in central Belgrade. Prepare to be tricked here... nothing will be the same!
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"Telma" is a cafe in the inner center of Belgrade. It's quiet and perfect as a place you can step into and find a piece of peace after a tiring walk...
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"Na Kraj Sveta", or To the End of the World, is a hidden gem of a tavern in Belgrade in green Ada Ciganlija. I love it for its food and homely feeling!
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Beyond books, Bookastore also offers a variety of products from local designers, such as jewelry, T-shirts, bags, posters, and more.
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"Zeleni Venac Market" is one of the best green markets in Belgrade and one of the easiest to reach. Come here instead of getting a bakery breakfast!
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"DUB antique store" Belgrade is a magical place to find the coolest of things with the most nostalgic of narratives...
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"Grmeč" is part of Belgrade's legendary 'Bermuda triangle' in the center where famous local artists would spend their bohemian days. Now it's open again!
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"Crveni Rak" in Belgrade has everything that pubs are known for - it's a small, cozy hideout with rock & blues music. The rakija is a class of its own.
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"Kosančićev Venac" is an area in the center of Belgrade near the main touristic spots that is not so popular but which reminds me of the 19th century.
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"Zvezdara's Watchtower" in Belgrade obviously has fantastic views, but it's also in one of the city's green lungs. Go at night for some stargazing...
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