When coming to Belgrade, one of the places you’ll surely put on your list of things to see is the bohemian part of Belgrade, Skadarlija. Skadarlija is a place that was home to the famous Serbian painter Đura Jakšić (Djura Jakshic) and also home to the most famous restaurants in Belgrade, Kafane.
Kafane is a plural of the word kafana, and in old times, Kafane in Skadarlija was a gathering place of artists; painters, poets, and actors.
In all that kafane mess, where you can eat and drink well but not cheap, there is a secret gem. That gem is a bakery called Spasa. Younger generations, well, younger than me, have never heard of that place, even though they have passed by hundreds of times.
It is one of the oldest bakeries in Belgrade, and its location is close to the tap, which is in the middle of the street. What makes this place so special is a food that no other bakery has. It is a bun with a famous Hungarian meal called goulash. The most simple description would be ‘meat in some sauce’. They cut the bun in half and put the goulash inside. And it is so delicious you’ll want to eat your fingers!
Also, it is much cheaper than all the kafane and restaurants around it. The meal costs 200 dinars, a little less than 2 euros.