This wonderfully traditional bar is just behind the National Auditorium in the Cruz del Rayo/Prosperidad district. It’s off the tourist trail – but that’s good, right? All my travels memories, the best ones anyway, are of times when I escaped the eager hordes of foreign travellers to somewhere where I couldn’t hear my language being spoken.

If that rings true, you’re going to love this place! All the Spanish classics are to be found here at their best – fresh, simple, deliciousness. They’ll give you a decent tapa with your beer, wine or vermut – please don’t ask for tapas; you get what you’re given; they’re free after all! Olives, Russian salad, patatas bravas, crisps… have a few drinks if you want a variety!

The best way to eat in Spanish bars is with company – agree on a few “raciones” and share everything – portions are substancial here. My friend and I had some boquerones fritos (fried fresh anchovies) and a plate of bravas (fried chunks of potatoes with a spicy sauce.) The anchovies were very fresh and perfectly seasoned and the brava sauce was the right amount of spicy – it can really vary from bar to bar.

Other things on offer include a great selection of seafood sold by the weight and tostas (large pieces of toasted bread) topped with cabrales cheese, tuna and roasted red peppers, tomatoes, grilled pork loin…

Go with an appetite, order a drink and look at what the locals are eating – the staff are friendly and helpful.