"Te dalshin brinat" (may you grow horns) is an old saying, not much in use nowadays, aimed at women and girls who stood their ground, who would not be sidelined.
I had all but forgotten the saying until I saw a wonderful painting by someone who became one of my favourite artists, Fitore Berisha. I’d known Fitore from before and we had a cordial rapport; I knew she moved to Iceland and that she dived into art with all her being.
Sometime in 2016 I saw one of Fitore’s FB post – the mesmerizing image of an imaginary woman, with a strong yet soft face, in greyish-green tones. The most bewitching aspect of the painting were the horns! Why the horns? In a subsequent discussion with Fitore, I understood the concept. It was not about women as obstinate individuals, rather, it was about women who endure, and survive, trials and tribulations, about women with inner strength to keep on going.
While this painting is not in public display, one can see Fitore’s brilliant art in “Kafja e Vogel”. There, you have a mural of three exquisite women. The best time to admire these beauties is at night. While everything around them is subdued, they come to life due to the spotlights that highlight the striking features.
As for me, every morning I am reminded that there are women and girls who have to deal with much more than I have to. And every morning I salute their strength and dignity.
Find your way with 77 Insider Tips from our Local Spotters
If you love an until-late-at-night venture but don't feel like going for the typical club scene (like me), taverna Menata is just the spot for us both!
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At Soma Slow Food there are high ceilings, large windows, and fairy lights, so the proper description would be: It's straight out of a fairytale.
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The owner, Tolinda, is an Albanian language teacher at my old high school and she is an encyclopedia of knowledge when it comes to Albanian culture.
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Farë is a place to drink, eat some light food, play board games, study, or enjoy your coffee, either inside or outside, on the beautiful patio.
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If cool vintage finds and good music is what tickles your fancy, head to Servis Fantazia. And don't forget to try one of their many great cocktails.
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My personal favorite thing to get here is Shef, which has tomato sauce, ham, Sharr cheese (from the mountains of Southern Kosovo), mozzarella, and spinach.
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This spot is an art gallery, a cafe, a bookstore, and a place for workshops. They're especially known for their painting and ceramics classes.
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"Remembering the Missing" in Prishtina is a plaque that commemorates the 1,600 people whose fate no-one knows still, 20 years after the war in Kosovo...
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Taverna Hije is the coziest spot ever! The food is delicious too; they come up with different daily menus and it is usually a meat & pasta lover’s heaven!
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Here you can find kifle with no filling or with chocolate, jam, cheese and sausage. And byrek or mantia with meat, spinach, and cheese as well.
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Embeltore "Elida" was the epicenter of fashion, intellectual life and society of Prishtina in the '80s. Get an old-fashioned sweet & travel back in time!
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One of my favorite woman artists in Prishtina in Teuta Kelmendi. Her sketches, almost like cartoons, follow her in her coffee outings in various cafes...
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77 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
Authentic Stories by Real People
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