The farmers market, more correctly "people's market" - a direct translation from Greek (laikí agorá) - is a tradition everywhere in Greece. Vendors, merchants and farmers from all over the country meet at a specific time and place every week and set up their benches on a town street. In Nea Smyrni, my hometown, this is Megalou Alexandrou St every Wednesday, and it goes on for 500m, not including sidestreets.
It's important to remember that laikí isn't just a farmer's market: there you can find not only fresh, seasonal fruits and vegetables, but also fish, olives and olive oil, nuts, wine, underwear, clothes, shoes, kitchen utensils, cleaning products and more. In other words, anything a housewife -or houseperson, we're not sexist!- might need. My grandmother only ever did her grocery shopping at the laikí. She would rarely go to the supermarket.
Nowadays, I'm following in her footsteps and carrying on the tradition. Unfortunately, it's mostly other grandmas I see when I stroll along Megalou Alexandrou on Wednesdays, though in the last few years, I've been noticing more and more young people rediscovering the old ways.
The produce on sale in these markets is not organic unless stated, but it's the best quality and cheapest non-organic food you can possibly find. Indicatively: €1 for a braid of garlic, €1.50 for 1kg of rice, €2 for 2kg of broccoli. The later you go, the better bargains you'll find.
To get there, take a tram to Agias Foteinis or Megalou Alexandrou.
Megalou Alexandrou, 17121
3kg oranges:
€
no-price
Find your way with 263 Insider Tips from our Local Spotters
MOMO is a cafe/bar/restaurant in Athens with an exquisite backyard that will give you back the time that's been stolen from you...
by
A well-cooked pita, a juicy burger, tomato, and onion are a unique and tasty combination. It is the epitome of delicious simplicity.
by
Matchpoint's interior is tastefully decorated, and the music is lovely but my favorite is sitting outside enjoying my drink and watching the world go by.
by
Ode to socks has made good use of the local greek heroes such as the priest (pappa), the priest's wife, the sailor, and the fisherman, who are characteristic figures in every Greek's childhood.
by
There are always dishes of the day in addition to the set menu, so no two visits to Mandragoras are ever the same. And kontosouvli is always available.
by
It does not matter what you order when you visit Mouries because everything is made with the same care (however, my favorite dish here is the meatballs).
by
Every time I cross Evripidou Street, I am overwhelmed by the aroma of cinnamon, pepper, and oregano, and images of Eastern bazaars come to mind.
by
My two favorites are Sfakianopita with honey and the famous Dakos. Every plate is cooked in olive oil with lots of rosemary.
by
Mauricio the cat likes to carry the latest publications, bringing attention to quality and design, and often hosts events such as reading time meetings with popular authors for his little friends.
by
Discover top-quality Aussie coffee at The Roasting Warehouse in Neos Kosmos — where industrial style meets world-class brews and garden-side brunch.
by
"Prigkiponisia" is one of my favorite pastry shops in Palaio Faliro, Athens. They're well known for their tsoureki bread & ice cream
by
263 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
Authentic Stories by Real People
Escape the Crowd & Travel Slow 🐌
✓ 0 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
✓ 263 Insider Tips