Gornji Dorćol (or as some locals would insist, Zerek) is my favorite neighborhood in Belgrade, filled with cool cafes, restaurants, shops and small art galleries sprinkled amidst historical sights.
While the area is most known for its many cool bars, which admittedly can get quite crowded and smoky even in the late afternoon, Kuća Umetnica is a beautiful spot I've discovered. Here, one can escape the usual crowded spaces and have a cup of coffee or tea in peace, or sit back with a nice cocktail in the evening before heading out partying.
This café/art gallery/vintage store has three levels worth of space, which seem to transform on their own: there are always some interesting new things to buy/look at or workshops to attend. The main level is light and airy and is a perfect spot to have a drink with a friend or by yourself while listening to some calm music in the background. The space is also non-smoking, which makes a nice change to the neighboring bars and cafes.
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