Times of crisis require hope found in the margins.
1858, Lourdes, extreme south of France. Cholera epidemics ravage. Bernadette Soubirous, suffering from asthma after having caught cholera, has visions of the Virgin Mary in a grotto. A cult with Lourdes grotto replicas will spread across Europe.
1915, behind the Yser river, extreme west of Belgium. The First World War came unannounced and took country after country. But Belgian troops withstand the enemy on a small territory. In occupied Belgium, people pray for these soldiers. In Jette, a Lourdes grotto replica is erected for this purpose. The original rock curves and cracks are carefully emulated. On top, on a Calvary Hill copy, a crucified Jesus promises salvation. 20.000 people attend the inauguration. After the war, a park with 14 Stations of the Cross, 15 Rosary Chapels and a second Calvary Hill is added.
2020, Jette, extreme northwest of Brussels-Capital Region. Corona tightens its grip across the globe. More than 1000 Lourdes grottos are strewn across Belgium. I enter the Jette Our Lady of Lourdes domain. Before me, a blue neon 'Ave Maria’ flickers in the dying day. It reminds me of Bruce Naumann’s art, just a little less profane. I touch the piece of real Lourdes rock, smoothened over the years by many hands and hopes that spring eternal. I read requests, thank-you notes and death cards.
An apparition. My late grandmother, Maria, and her Lourdes water on the windowsill after my grandfather died.
When all this is over, I’ll come back here. To hope in the margins.
Find your way with 292 Insider Tips from our Local Spotters
From side dishes like dumplings to main dishes like Bibimbap and Bulgogi, all are served with freshly cooked vegetables, steamed rice & homemade sauces.
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Do you just want everyday dishes that you would eat at home in Japan? Then "Tokidoki" in Brussels is what you are looking for. No sushi or noodles here!
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"Tero" in Brussels is so much more than a restaurant - it's a philosophy. It offers tasty, natural cuisine that follows the seasons!
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"Certo" in Brussels is a tiny Italian restaurant on a corner just behind Place Saint Boniface and one of my favorites. Federico Mazzoni is the perfect host!
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"Les Petits Bouchons" is a typical Brussels bistro with a lot of wood, some mirrors and old-skool lighting. Zwanzers love it!
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"Rambo" in Brussels will make you feel like you're in LA. Loud music, an open kitchen and three amazing types of burgers!
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"Belga & Co" in Brussels is one of the city's great coffee places. Everything made in-house, friendly service, big window, no frills - just good coffee.
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Even though it's a little out of the route for most, Glacier Zizi is definitely worth the detour! Ice cream, waffles, crêpes, smoothies... Your pick!
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Come at any point of the day and have a fresh drink, a burger, salad or chill and let your kids/dogs run in the park while you chat with your friends.
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A simple but still refined style characterizes this café, which at night becomes a warm wine bar with small plates to share.
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The Perché rooftop bar is on top of the JAM hotel, which is why not many people wander up here, but it's so worth it! It has a great view and comfy chairs.
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292 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
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