When writing about bars & cafes of Zagreb, Palainovka needs a special mention. This is where not only our parents but our grandparents & their parents used to drink coffee & chat about daily events in the city. Opened in 1847, this is the oldest & best known Zagreb cafe that is still open for business.
My husband and I remember coming here as kids with our parents and we love still it here, especially on lazy summer afternoons. The atmosphere is rather quiet because not so many cars pass by and there are no big crowds. It’s located on the smallest Zagreb square, Ilirski trg, right next to the Observatory and many other historical buildings, which makes it a perfect spot to take a break from exploring Upper town.
Also, only a few steps from Palainovka is a beautiful viewpoint of the city with a great outlook of Zagreb’s red rooftops. Sitting on the terrace here, it’s easy to feel like the city folk used to feel a hundred years ago. Houses, buildings, streets…they all look like they did back then & this historic vibe is what makes me come back here often.
The coffee is nice or you can order a glass of wine, the choice is really good. Of course, I recommend Croatian wines. They are amazing and do go with the scenery here. The interior is simple & comfortable, but the terrace is the place to be; relax your eyes while breathing some fresh forest air coming down gently from Medvednica mountain.