Kokkion’s ice cream is amazing. But let me put this in context. I have to be honest with you – I’m not a fan of marketplaces. I often find the offer overwhelming and the crowds stifling. The central market of Athens, Varvakeios, is no different, with the added bonus that its levels of dirtiness never fail to surprise and rub me the wrong way. During the never-ending 2nd COVID quarantine, walking on these streets was even less appealing than it had been before, the aura of abandonment and decay stonger than ever.

But as you must know already, urban decay can be sexy, and that could very well be the whole trendy neighborhood of Psyrri’s foundational motto. Kokkion is an ice cream place that’s strategically placed on a sidestreet in this area, where the griminess can be cool or off-putting depending on the time of day and whether the shops around are closed.

Marilena got milk chocolate/pepper and tangerine/ginger sorbet whereas I got pistachio and cinnamon. Always on the lookout for the city’s best ice cream, we knew that Kokkion should make the list from the very first lick. Good thing that when you’re a couple you can (usually) share your ice cream freely. Although I have to say I was particularly proud of my serendipitous discovery of such a tasty combination as cinnamon and pistachio!